Travel: Far & Away

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Far & Away

From as close by as the North Carolina mountains to the distant shores of Costa Rica, these last-minute summer getaways promise affordable, accessible adventures for Upstate residents in search of a relaxing hiatus this travel season.

LAKE TOXAWAY
A hidden North Carolina resort with charming reminders of yesteryear

There was a time when Lake Toxaway in the North Carolina mountains was frequented by the likes of Thomas Edison, Henry Ford, John D. Rockefeller, and other members of early 1900s elite society. The Toxaway Inn, a 200-plus-room hotel built in 1903, became a gathering place for high society and a summer escape for families across the South. It sat lakeside as the grande dame of Southern aristocracy for fourteen years.

During those early years, a young woman from Savannah became enthralled with the lake community. Lucy Camp Armstrong persuaded her husband to build a home on a small peninsula directly across Lake Toxaway from the legendary inn. Completed in 1915, her magnificent six-level, Swiss-influenced mansion became a dazzling addition to Toxaway’s growing popularity.

The lake’s glory days were short-lived, however. During the summer of 1916, torrential rains flooded the region, and Lake Toxaway emptied overnight after its earthen dam gave way. The Toxaway Inn survived, as did Armstrong’s sprawling home. (She continued to make Lake Toxaway her permanent home from 1924 until her death in 1970.) But without its waterfront, the neighboring inn stood empty for more than thirty years until it was torn down. The area became little more than a disenfranchised mountain community.

That is, until 1961 when a Columbia, South Carolina, businessman assembled a group of investors and purchased 7,000 acres surrounding the former lake. Reg Heinitsh Jr., the new owner, rebuilt the dam, refilled Lake Toxaway, and added a golf course, quickly reestablishing the area to its former glory. The former residence of Lucy Armstrong was not overlooked, but instead transformed into the historic Greystone Inn.

Perhaps it is Lake Toxaway’s toilsome past that has kept it a hidden gem for all these years, a quaint reminder of yesteryear. A mere 58 miles from downtown Greenville, the winding, rambling drive that passes between Table Rock State Park and Nantahala National Forest is slow and beautiful and makes this private resort a perfect weekend getaway. Guests can bunker down in the 33-room Greystone Inn, savor the history of times past, and indulge in the many amenities the community offers.

The recently expanded inn’s guest rooms have been painstakingly restored and feature period furnishings and intricate architectural details throughout. The 16 guestrooms in the original home are all named after the guest list of the old Toxaway Inn. The lake, which spans 640 acres with 14 miles of shoreline, is populated almost exclusively with leisure craft that accommodate lazy socials on the water. Each evening, a champagne cruise upon the aptly named “Miss Lucy”—a 26-passenger replica of early 1900s-era boats—tours the lake, its mahogany wood glistening and small electric motor whirring so softly the pop of champagne corks can be heard over it.

The Lake Toxaway Golf Course boasts stunning views of the lake and surrounding mountains as the course climbs its way through rugged terrain. For non-golfers, Sothys, an intimate spa at the Greystone Inn, offers a cadre of treatments. Along with a professional croquet court, tennis, fishing, hiking, and porches that invite rocking and sunset viewing, Lake Toxaway is an ideal escape.

How To Get There
Mode of Transport:
Car
Distance:
58 miles
Travel Time:
One-and-a-half-hours (located halfway between Brevard, N.C., and Cashiers, N.C., off Highway 64)

Best Bets:

Where to Stay
The Greystone Inn, historic accommodations, lakeside dining, and privileges at the Lake Toxaway Country Club. Greystone Lane, Lake Toxaway, N.C., (828) 966-4700, www.greystoneinn.com

Cocktail
The Toxaway House, extensive wine list, Italian-inspired menu, and mountain ambiance. 9 Toxaway Falls Drive, #4, Lake Toxaway, N.C., (828) 966-9226

Memorable Meal
Brown Trout Mountain Grille, housed in an old train depot, serves a wide selection of trout dishes and more with old-fashioned atmosphere. 502 Blue Ridge Road, Lake Toxaway, N.C., (828) 877-3474, www.browntroutgrille.com

Adventures & Excursions
Headwaters Outfitters, offers fly-fishing excursions, canoeing, kayaking, and tubing river trips on the nearby French Broad River. Rosman, N.C., (828) 877-3106, www.headwatersoutfitters.com

—Jack Bacot

COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG
Cobblestone streets of this southeast Virginia city lead to family fun

There are preservation districts that can be explored in an afternoon, historic port towns to be discovered over a weekend, and Colonial villages up and down the East Coast that can be returned to time and again. But families in search of a multi-day trip that not only takes you away but takes you back in time should look no further than Williamsburg, Virginia.

For going on a century, Williamsburg—the capital city of early Virginia—has been a stopover for those seeking tangible connections to some of the earliest generations of U.S. patriots. Back in 1926, Clergyman William Archer Rutherfoord Goodwin (considered the father of Colonial Williamsburg) enlisted the support of noted American philanthropist John D. Rockefeller Jr. to finance the demolition of Williamsburg’s modern streets, structures, and utilities and fund reconstruction of a historic streetscape in their place.

The result? Today, the southeast Virginia city has elevated living history to an interactive experience arguably unmatched by any other in the nation, drawing a reported four million visitors annually. Its architecture and attractions are laid out in an uninterrupted 173-acre, cobbled-street area that encompasses more than 500 restored and rebuilt homes, stores, and taverns.

Modern guests can stay in period-inspired housing (from hotel rooms to cottages), where wood-burning fireplaces invite lounging and manicured, English-style courtyards welcome gazing. Restored eighteenth-century taverns serve local ales, rums, and authentic Williamsburg root beer alongside Brunswick stew and other hearty Colonial fare. Street balladeers lead guests in old-time sing-alongs, and musical ensembles perform everything from drum-and-fife marches to theater music played on authentic eighteenth-century instruments.

The trip may be a little lengthy (reaching Williamsburg from the Upstate requires a seven-hour car trip—or longer if you leave time to stop by a Civil War battlefield or peruse an apple stand or two), but it’s certainly worth the drive. Just outside Williamsburg, the cities of Jamestown and Yorktown provide similarly rich historical sightseeing adventures. The College of William & Mary, in the heart of Williamsburg, is the second-oldest institution of higher learning in the nation. (Harvard is the oldest.) And nearby local wineries offer tours and tastings, as well.

Coupled with a visit to any number of nearby adventure-packed attractions, including Busch Gardens theme park, Great Wolf Lodge, and Water Country USA, a trip to Williamsburg promises a fun-filled family adventure.

How To Get There
Mode of Transport:
Car
Distance:
432 miles
Travel Time:
About seven hours

Best Bets:

Cheap Lunch
The Cheese Shop, fresh breads, 200-plus cheeses, and wine. 410 W. Duke of Gloucester Street, Merchants Square, (757) 220-0298

Dinner Spot
Chowning’s Tavern, a true eighteenth-century rum and ale house. 109 E. Duke of Gloucester Street, (757) 229-2141

Shopping
Williamsburg Pottery Factory, pottery, fine china, glassware, stemware, baskets, and a variety of wines and cheeses. Route 60 West, Lightfoot, Virginia, (757) 564-3326, www.williamsburgpottery.com

Where to Stay
The Colonial Williamsburg Resort Collection, all accommodations are seated in the heart of the historic area. Locations vary. For more information, visit www.colonialwilliamsburgresorts.com

Pit Stop
Jamestowne Colonial National Historical Park and Jamestown Settlement, national historic park preserves and interprets the site of America’s first permanent English settlement. 1368 Colonial Parkway, Jamestown, Virginia, (757) 229-1733, www.historicjamestowne.org and www.historyisfun.org

—Heidi Coryell Williams

PUNTA GORDA
Family-friendly Gulf Coast city that's a direct (and cheap!) flight from GSP

Upstaters looking for a little fun in the summer sun have an easy link to a secret beach in southwestern Florida thanks to new Allegiant Air service in our region. Tucked into the Gulf of Mexico, the coastal region of Charlotte Harbor and its surrounding islands offer a taste of old Florida, before the time of giant theme parks and outlet shopping malls. Possibly best of all, the area is only about an hour away by plane on a flight that—by the way—costs less one way than a tank of gas.

Jutting out into Charlotte Harbor, the city of Punta Gorda (named named “Best Healthy Place to Retire” by U.S. News & World Report) offers a slow pace that promotes wandering. Since near decimation by Hurricane Charley in 2004, the city has been focused on rebirth, and freshly stuccoed buildings and murals pop with color.

So spend at least a night or two in Punta Gorda, and make time for the “Think Thursday” weekly showcase, where local merchants and restaurants extend their hours and offer free beverages and entertainment. You’ll know who they are by the flip-flops painted on the sidewalk outside their doors. Couples can mark a romantic long weekend at the newly built Wyvern Hotel near the picturesque Laishley Park Marina. What the boutique hotel lacks in immediate views due to a surrounding crescent of parking lots, it more than makes up for in attention to luxurious details, including gourmet chocolate with the turndown service and a hotel restaurant willing to deviate from the ample breakfast menu to accommodate a hankering for French toast.

A scant block away is The Perfect Caper—a restaurant serving lobster macaroni and cheese that alone could almost warrant the schlep from Greenville. The chef of this swanky Eurasian eatery regularly breaks away from the kitchen to chat with customers above the din of the live jazz band in the back corner. Round the night off with an after-dinner drink at Bin 82 wine bar and listen as a local strums Dave Matthews’ hits.

Throughout the Charlotte Harbor region as a whole, fishing charters abound. The area also boasts four state parks as well as a shoreline nearly completely protected from development. Younger children will likely get a kick out of riding a “swamp buggy” at Babcock Wilderness Adventures where they will have an opportunity to touch a young alligator and see, up close, the distinction among the different ecosystems in the region.

Parents and kids alike are sure to get all revved up at Muscle Car City, a private museum of more than 200 vintage sets of wheels. Save room for dinner at the Peace River Seafood and Crab Shack on Highway 17, where they only smoke or steam fresh seafood brought in locally. Eat at a picnic table on the back deck at this low-key local joint, and watch the goats meander in the petting zoo out back.

The natural charm of this area becomes apparent once you leave the city and head toward the western islands in the Gulf. For the best beaching, Don Pedro Island is where you want to be, where the shores are secluded and accessible only by ferry. The tame surf is tot-friendly, as is the shell-collecting at Don Pedro Island State Park where you can come back with a pocket full of sharks’ teeth.

How To Get There
Mode of Transport:
Air—low-cost carrier Allegiant Air has new nonstop service from Greenville-Spartanburg Airport to the Charlotte County Airport in Punta Gorda.
Cost:
One-way fares as low as $29
Travel Time:
One-and-a-half-hour flight

Best Bets:

Family Adventure
Grande Tours Kayak Center, kayaking, fishing trips, and more. 12575 Placida Road, Placida, (941) 697-8825, www.grandetours.com

Upscale Dinner Spot
The Perfect Caper, European-Asian continental cuisine. 121 E. Marion Avenue, Punta Gorda, (941) 505-9009, www.theperfectcaper.com

Where to Stay
Islander Properties, charming villa rentals with off-season discounts available. 7025 Placida Road, Ste. A, (941) 697-2000, www.islanderproperties.com

Best dessert
Lock-N-Key Restaurant, try the six-inch-high coconut cream pie. 2045 North Beach Road, Englewood, (941) 474-1517, www.lockandkeyrestaurant.com

—Kimberly Johnson

COSTA RICA
Latin American oasis promises high adventure and tropical retreat

Green is the new black. But between green living and greenbacks, you might not have considered green escapes. Costa Rica, a skip across the azure Caribbean, is Central America’s eco-center, with more than 25 percent of its land devoted to nature preserves and unparalleled biodiversity. The “rich coast” is an ecological gem—a boon for nature geeks, thrill-seekers, and beach bums alike—beckoning tourists to kick back or kick into gear, while reveling in its lush green wilds.

Bordered on the north by Nicaragua, Panama to the south, the Pacific Ocean to the west, and the Caribbean to the east, Costa Rica’s bang-for-your-buck attractions are by virtue of its geography. The land was relatively ignored by the Spanish Crown in the sixteenth century because of its distance from Guatemala City, the urban hotspot. As a result, Costa Rica retains a certain unmarred beauty, its seven provinces blessed with peaks (including five active volcanoes), rapids, coral reefs, nearly untouched sands, and a pluperfect tropical climate, averaging highs in the 70s and lows in the 60s.

Though the summer months fall into Costa Rica’s rainy season (April through November), afternoon showers balance sunshiny mornings and evenings. What’s more, travelers can cash in on off-season discounts for airfare, hotels, and eco-tours. Costa Rica’s capital, San José, is a sensible spot to anchor. The city boasts eclectic neighborhoods, restaurants, and museums for the urban-minded to satisfy their cultural fix and gain footing for off-road adventures.

Monteverde, tucked in the coffee-rich Central Valley highlands, is a four-hour ride from San José. Its sprawling 26,000-acre nature park, the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, abounds with diverse flora and fauna, including nearly 2,000 plant species, more than 400 orchids, and 100 kinds of mammals. Head southwest to Corcovado National Park in the Osa Peninsula for more tropical diversity, including endangered monkeys; or follow a knowledgeable guide through Tortuguero National Park (tortuguero: “full of turtles”) in the northeastern province of Limón and witness the annual nesting of nearly 30,000 green sea turtles, from July to October.

Next, abandon the binoculars and test your mettle with a whitewater ride down the Pacuare River in Turrialba, less than two hours’ drive east of San José and reported to have the best rapids in the world. During the wet summer months, the river is particularly lively. Back on dry land, tackle active volcano Irazú (11,260 feet)—non-eruptive since 1963—33 miles outside of San José. Navigate its craggy terrain to jade-colored craters and views of both coasts.

The northwestern Guanacaste province offers resorts, quiet beaches, and the best surfing this side of Baja. Liberia, closer than San José to the Pacific and served by another international hub, Daniel Oduber Quirós airport, is an alternate location for East Coast flights. Or, if you’re flying from San José, take local airline Sansa to Quepos en route to beach paradise. Choose a luxury resort or a quaint bungalow in a developed, but considerably less-populated area than the Myrtle Beach strip—because a drive to the Carolina coast is a fine option, but given Costa Rica’s affordable eco-bounty, a change of plans seems only natural.

How To Get There
Mode of Transport:
Air—connecting flights in Atlanta and Charlotte
Cost:
On average, $600 round-trip ticket
Travel Time:
6-10 hours, including layover

Best Bets:

Adventure
Tico’s River Adventures, Turrialba, white-water rafting on the Pacuare River, among the top-five rapid waters in the world. www.ticoriver.com/pacuare.htm

Beachgoers
Manuel Antonio National Park, just south of Quepos on the Pacific Coast and 80 miles from San José, boasts expansive white sand beaches backed by an evergreen forest that grows right up to the high tide line. www.manuelantoniopark.com

Where to Stay
Adventure Inn in San José, clean and family-friendly. www.adventure-inn.com

Hotel Verde Mar, near Manuel Antonio National Park in Guanacaste, lower-priced, and on the beach. www.monteverdeinfo.com/quepos

Hotel La Mariposa, near Manuel Antonio National Park in Guanacaste, luxury accommodations seated on the highest point of the area with stunning views. www.lamariposa.com

—Blair Knobel