Restaurant Review: The Cazbah

Consider this an invitation to get reacquainted with downtown Greer: The Cazbah is open for business. Those familiar with Greenville’s dining scene know that during the bedroom community’s revitalization, Greer gained some great restaurants. Sadly, several shuttered due to economic pressures. However, The Cazbah’s owners—Audrey Stenger and Christopher Porter—soldiered on with plans to renovate the charming, vintage two-story brick building on Trade Street, right across from the old train depot.

They could have simply cashed in on nearly a decade of success with The Cazbah on McBee Street in downtown Greenville, duplicating everything from the décor to the menu. Instead, they started fresh—glossy charcoal-and-pewter wood-grain tables, curvy banquettes surrounded by silky draperies, and even a rooftop bar. But Chef Landy Randolph’s sinfully delicious comfort food with a tapas twist reminds that adding new touches while preserving some traditional charm makes for a great combination.

Tapas are taken from the Spanish culinary tradition of small plates, appetizers as it were, served sequentially so as to encourage conversation (and allow time to enjoy good wine). In the United States, tapas have evolved into an entire cuisine, allowing chefs to showcase their talents as well as the bounty of seasonal ingredients. Chef Landy is no exception. The establishment’s tag line: “tapas, wine, euphoria,” indicates a philosophy inspired by indulgence and reflected in the menu, which changes quarterly. Dishes such as the rustic, yet refined, lamb chops, shrimp and grits, and the Maine Taters, made with fresh lobster meat mashed with Yukon Gold potatoes, proved as satisfying as they were intriguing.

To begin there are those taters, at once lumpy and creamy, as well as crunchy asparagus tempura. There are old favorites such as baked brie, and the more whimsical, fried blue-cheese olives. The heaping handful of “Hip-Hop” greens is sprinkled with mild blue cheese, while the Asian house salad channels a complex blend of five spice, ginger, and sesame.

More substantial, but still light, is the sushi roll, an experience of texture from the crisp Southern-fried outer layer encasing the moist interior. Less successful is the flavor, as each bite produced a different taste, almost as though each ingredient was being eaten individually. However, the bed of noodles under the rolls, slick with spiced oil, balanced the dish.

Scallops—so simple, yet so hard to get exactly right—really showcase Chef Landy’s inventive spirit and skill. He added them to the shrimp-and-grits plate, glazed with butter and garnished with bacon. In another offering, he surrounds them with velvety curry (imagine a korma made saucier with the addition of heat) spiked with the tart tang of diced tomatoes.

Finally, meat-and-potatoes fans will not be disappointed with the rare and succulent ribeye, served with a side of tender potatoes and bright baby greens.

The reasonably priced wine list is as creative as the menu. Written with The Cazbah’s signature cheeky sense of humor, the descriptions of selections by the glass are not only helpful, they’re a refreshing break from those haughty oenophile’s explanations that populate so many restaurant menus. For instance, the 1919 Malbec is pronounced, “What Governor Sanford really went to Argentina for,” an apt description for a sleek, drinkable red, while the Edna Valley Chardonnay is properly nuanced as “The Adam Lambert of wine. Young, sweet, and kinda, sorta (possibly) fruity.” If, like us, you find yourself too busy giggling to decide, the capable and genial server will happily suggest his personal favorites.

On a mild evening, The Cazbah’s cuisine may best be enjoyed al fresco. Indeed, contemplating dessert while being tickled by rooftop breezes makes it hard to pass on the tongue-in-cheek “happy ending.” Therein lies the secret that makes The Cazbah truly special: Even after sampling eight or more dishes, there is still plenty on the menu to explore.