Restaurant Review: Just in Time

The little storefront in Chapman’s Corner, a strip mall on the east end of Woodruff Road near Highway 14, has seen its share of tenants. Six years ago, it was Claude’s Café. Then the space was taken over by a series of ethnic restaurants that never seemed to last. Since March of this year, Cullen’s Seasonal Bistro has refreshed the forty-seat space with a new coat of paint, pendant lights, and a farm-to-table philosophy.

You see evidence of this ideology upon first glance at executive chef/partner Michael Moore’s menu, which lists ingredients such as Hurricane Creek butter lettuce, Carolina Gold sweet potatoes, and house-made tomato sauce. True to the restaurant’s name, the bill of fare changes with each season and wisely isn’t overly ambitious. It lists roughly eight appetizers and eight entrées, plus a couple of nightly specials recited by the servers. Moore attended Le Cordon Bleu culinary academy in San Francisco, and honed his skills in France among other places, so it is no surprise that his repertoire incorporates a French flair in dishes such as a satisfying rendition of coq au vin and a classic bistro steak (served with roasted red potatoes instead of frites).

The compact wine list, which groups its labels (mostly Californian) by style, suggests general pairings in terms of ingredients (i.e., an aromatic, structured Chardonnay with lean fish and spicy dishes; a bright, fruity Garnacha with tomatoes and smoked foods). Local brews—from the Carolinas and Georgia—dominate the roster of beers, including Greenville’s own Thomas Creek Brewing Co.

Heather Cullen—who, with her husband, Chef Dan Cullen, an original owner—manages the front of the house. She greets us warmly, explains the specials, and competently fields our questions about wine pairings.

A warm fall spinach salad and a bowl of mussels Diablo, a special this evening, begin our meal. Heather asks if I am comfortable with the kitchen dressing my salad, and I agree. The spinach wilts from the warm dressing, which is punctuated with soft bits of bacon. Had the bacon been crispy, it would have provided better textural contrast to the wilted spinach, the dried cranberries, and the dollop of creamy goat cheese that compose the salad. On the other hand, the fresh mussels, bathed in a spicy tomato-based broth enriched with a touch of cream, spark our palates for the entrées to come.

When the main courses arrive, I tuck into the stuffed farm chicken. The slightly overcooked chicken lacks juiciness, and the soft skin—charred with grill marks that lend a hint of smoke—is disappointing. Inside the breast, however, the play of earthy spinach, sweet sun-dried tomatoes, and spicy bits of chorizo speaks of cool fall nights. A blanket of butternut squash risotto underneath echoes the fall theme with cubes of pumpkin-colored squash, cooked al dente.

Walnut-crusted local rainbow trout comes for my companion. While the fish is tender and flaky, the lemon beurre blanc falls short of flavorful. Lima beans, corn, haricot verts, and cubes of crunchy zucchini make a tasty succotash all the same; and the Carolina Gold sweet-potato purée adds a jolt of color to
the dish.

Upon perusing the dessert menu, I pass up the Granny Smith apple bread pudding in favor of the chocolate fondant cake. The dark chocolate glaze on top and the layer of filling within lightens the dense, bittersweet cake, which is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Despite some inconsistencies in execution, Cullen’s permeates the plethora of eateries along Woodruff Road with an inspired farm-to-table way of thinking. I hope this time is the charm at this location, and that this friendly neighborhood bistro will continue to bloom through many seasons to come.

Location:1860 Woodruff Rd., Suite C. (864) 329-0046, www.cullensbistro.com
Hours:Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-9pm; Sunday brunch, 8am-2pm. Closed Monday.
Price of Dishes: $14-$27