Food and Wine: Feast for the Eyes

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Feast for the Eyes

Food and Wine

Most families have at least one great chef in their midst—the apron-clad soul who makes the holiday meal appear totally effortless and taste inconceivably delicious.

Lucky for G, our holiday table got the benefit of six such gourmands, each of whom contributed a dish or two to come up with the perfect holiday feast: Jason McCarthy, executive chef of Rick Erwin’s; John Malik, formerly of 33 Liberty and now executive chef of The Cascades at Verdae; Anthony Gray, executive chef of Maverick Southern Kitchens’ High Cotton; Elizabeth Bardsley, chef of Northampton Wine Café; Mike Granata, executive chef of Table 301; and Jason Scholtz, executive chef of Stella’s Southern Bistro.

If you sat these folks down at the same table, which we did for lunch one afternoon earlier this fall, you’d find out that their holiday traditions are about as varied as they come. For example, forget turkey for the main course—think prime rib or fresh ham instead.

To keep things fair, we had each chef draw a course from a pot and that was the one they got to cook. The dishes are from their personal files, and the result is a feast that proved beautiful, bountiful, and surprisingly doable. See something you’d like to try out for your table this year? We nabbed their recipes, too. Go online to find them at www.gvillemag.com and prepare to dig in!

Appetizer

Jason McCarthy
Rick Erwin’s

Plymouth Rockefeller

“Everybody loves oysters, especially at this time of year. I say, ‘Why not include them as a part of your holiday festivities?’”

See recipe below...

Favorite holiday tradition: “Watching football and napping.”

Soup & Salad

John Malik
The Cascades at Verdae

Pumpkin Soup & Bibb Salad with Beets

“Acorns, delicata, butternuts, hubbards, and pumpkins are packed with flavor and are full of vitamins and minerals, and unfortunately they are so underappreciated.

See recipe below...

If we knew how wonderful and easy to work with they are, we would come to appreciate them as food,
and not decoration.”

Favorite holiday tradition: “Being able to enjoy all the wonderful desserts that my wife will spend days laboring over. My wife’s love and talent is truly something to be thankful for.”

Meat Entrée

Elizabeth Bardsley
Northampton Wine Café

Baked Fresh Ham with Oloroso Sherry & Orange Marmalade Glaze

“I love to prepare a large roast, especially ham, on holidays because after the initial beautiful presentation with dinner, my guests can nibble on the ham the rest of the visit. I leave loaves of thick-sliced whole grain bread for impromptu sandwich making. And nothing tastes better on a ham sandwich than a great fruit chutney
or spicy mustard.”

See recipe below...

Favorite holiday tradition: “My Aunt Pauline on the Italian side of the family used to set the kids’ table with a foil-wrapped fancy chocolate turkey or Santa depending on the holiday. As a child I was so excited that an adult thought to give us something so decadent! I try to always remember the littlest guests at my house with a special, memorable treat.”

Poultry Entrée

Anthony Gray
High Cotton

Duckquailin
(Stuffed, whole duck, squab, and quail, with golden raisins and toasted walnuts, wrapped with bacon, and topped with Dijon mushroom gravy)

“This was an interpretation of the classic Turducken, and it’s the ultimate example of splurging for the holidays. Local ingredients were used, including a duck from Tanglewood Farms in Clemmons, N.C., two squab from the Palmetto Pigeon Farm, and four quail from Manchester Farms. The only thing missing is the partridge in a
pear tree!”

See recipe below...

Favorite holiday tradition: “Having a large Italian feast with a three-meat sauce and watching my nieces and nephews opening presents on Christmas Eve.”

Side Dishes

Mike Granata
Table 301
(collaborating with chefs Steven Devereaux Greene & Spencer Thompson)

Caramelized Fennel with Almond-Glazed Brussels Sprouts & Parisian Sweet Potato; Housemade Brioche Stuffing; Potato Gratin with Melter Squash & Roasted Red Peppers

“When I think of fall and holiday food I always think of Brussels sprouts and sweet potato. The fresh fennel bulb goes so naturally with pork.”

See recipe below...

Favorite holiday tradition: “Dinner! I think about it constantly leading up to a holiday and think about it coming together all day long.”

Dessert

Jason Scholtz
Stella’s Southern Bistro

Carolina Gold Rice Pudding with Caramelized Apples & Spiced White Chocolate Whipped Cream

“This dish is simple to make and most of it can be done ahead of time. Apples are a staple on any holiday menu, and rice pudding is something traditional and delicious, but not done too often anymore. For best results, use local apples and Carolina Gold rice.”

See recipe below...

Favorite holiday tradition: “Cooking (of course) and spending time with a houseful of family and friends…and watching football.”

Table Manners

by Christa Hovis

Sick of Christmas Spode? Far too casual for Lenox or Johnson Brothers? Or maybe, like us, you’re just looking for something different—a little earthy, kind of contemporary, and a touch organic—to define your dinner table during the holidays. Here’s how to create an organic-chic table in your own home—and you won’t have to break the bank doing it.

How it’s done:

• Work with the room you have or what’s in the room to create your color palette. If you decide to clean out the room, then feel free to use whatever colors you want!
• Assess items already available in your home and gather “like things”—even those not necessarily used for a table setting.
• Draw up a layout for the room and draw one for the table.
• Create height to add drama.
• Make it functional.
• Have a plan to refer to on the day you set your table so that all your materials are accessible and available.
• Don’t be afraid to break rules, like having an atypical place-setting or using stemless wine glasses for water glasses.

Plymouth Rockefeller

Servings: 

4

(courtesy of Chef Jason McCarthy)




Ingredients: 

• 12 East Coast Oysters
• 1 can artichoke hearts, minced
• 1/4 cup dried cranberries, chopped
• 1 tsp garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup yellow onion, diced
• 1/4 cup celery, diced
• 1 cup Panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
• 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
• 1 lemon, juice and zest
• 1 Tablespoon butter
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions: 

Sweat onions, celery, garlic with butter until soft. Add artichokes and cranberries; continue to cook for 2 minutes.

Add lemon zest and juice. Set aside to cool.

Carefully shuck the oysters, reserving as much liquid as possible. Equally stuff each oyster with filling. Dust with bread crumbs and Parmesan. Bake in a 350-degree convectional or 400-degree conventional oven for 4 to 5 minutes, or until desired doneness is achieved.

Pumpkin Soup

Servings: 

4

(courtesy of Chef John Malik)

Ingredients: 

• 1 sweet onion, peeled and chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
• 2 cups defatted chicken or vegetable stock
• 1 cup dry white wine such as a Sauvignon Blanc
• 1 medium-sized pumpkin
• Salt & pepper to taste
• 4 Tablespoons whole butter
• 1 Sprig Sage Leaves

Crème Fraiche (recipe follows)

• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 Tablespoons buttermilk or yogurt, active cultures are a necessity

Directions: 

Skewer the pumpkin with a knife then roast for approximately an hour in a 325-degree oven. Allow the pumpkin to cool before peeling, discarding the seeds and chopping into small pieces.

In a heavy bottomed stock pot place about 2 cups of vegetable oil and bring to 325 degrees. Please use a thermometer to insure that the oil does not get too hot. Drop the sage leaves into the hot oil and allow the sage to fry for about 1 minute or until crispy. Carefully remove from oil and place on clean paper towels. When cooled the crispy leaves are easily pulled from the stalks and can be crumbled.

In a heavy bottomed stockpot over a medium flame, cook the onions and garlic in 2 tablespoons of butter until soft, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and allow this to simmer for about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and pumpkin, return to a simmer and allow the soup to continue cooking for about 20 to 25 minutes. Finish the soup by pureeing with a stick blender or bar blender, adding in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter then season with salt and pepper to your liking. Serve warm with a dollop of crème fraiche and a sprinkle of fried sage leaves.

Crème Fraiche 
 
 

Mix together and place somewhere warm (80 to 85 degrees) overnight. The active cultures will reproduce in the warm environment and thicken the cream. Refrigerate. Crème Fraîche will keep for about 7 to 10 days; can also be strained through cheesecloth if a thicker consistency is desired. 
 
 
 
 
 


Beet Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette

Servings: 

4

(courtesy of Chef John Malik)

Ingredients: 

• Goat cheese
• Croutons (of French bread, sourdough, wheat, etc.)
• Bibb lettuce
• Beets
• Country ham
• Caramelized pecans

Champagne Vinaigrette

• 1 shallot, peeled and quartered
• 1/4 cup Champagne vinegar, or white-wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 3/4 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground pepper to taste

Directions: 

Use a round cookie cutter to cut out two bread rounds per plate and toast in 350-degree oven.

Stack bread rounds for the salad's base; then place Bibb lettuce and top with beets, country ham, and caramelized pecans. Add goat cheese to top of salad and/or arrange on plate. Spoon vinaigrette on top of salad and around plate.

For the Champagne Vinaigrette
Puree all ingredients with a stick blender, food processor, or upright blender.

Baked Fresh Ham with Oloroso Sherry and Orange Marmalade Glaze

Servings: 

8

(Courtesy of Chef Elizabeth Minetta Bardsley)

Ingredients: 

• 1 fresh ham, bone in
• 1 jar of orange marmalade (not made with corn syrup)
• ¼ to ½ cup of Oloroso Sherry (or Cream or Golden Sherry)
• ¼ teaspoon ground allspice or cloves
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Extra-virgin olive oil

Directions: 

Score in a criss-cross pattern the white fat of the ham. Place in a roasting pan. Rub the ham with extra-virgin olive oil and season with freshly ground black pepper. Bake uncovered in a low oven (300F to 325F) for 3 to 4 hours (look for the bone to protrude) or until a thermometer inserted near the center of the ham reads 160F to 165F.

In a small bowl, combine the orange marmalade, Oloroso sherry, and allspice. Remove ham from the oven and spread glaze evenly over it. Return to oven for about 30 minutes to set the glaze. Remove the ham from the oven and allow to rest for about 30 minutes to 1 hour. (Allowing cooked meat to rest contributes to retention of moisture and tenderness.)

Notes about hams, Oloroso sherry, cooking times, etc.

When buying a fresh ham, look for one with a nice layer of fat. By scoring the fat you will allow the fat to render, self-baste, and become crispy. Oloroso sherry is aged longer and therefore pricier. It is a festive holiday drink and a fine after-dinner treat. You may substitute Cream or Golden sherry, only if you plan on cooking with sherry. Cooking time is approximate, as all hams are not the same size and all ovens are not calibrated true to temperature.

Duckquailin

Servings: 

8

Stuffed whole duck, squab, and quail with golden raisins, toasted walnuts, and Dijon-mushroom gravy

(courtesy of Chef Anthony Gray)

Ingredients: 

Duckquailin

• 1 whole duck (five pounds, average)
• 2 whole Palmetto pigeons
• 4 whole Manchester Farms quail

Gravy

• 1/2 cup diced sweet onion
• 1/4 cup diced celery
• 1/4 cup diced carrot
• 1 bunch fresh thyme
• 5 black peppercorns
• 1 star-anise pod
• 2 cups brandy
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 cup cream
• 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard.
• 4 cups chopped mushrooms (shitake, cremini, oyster)
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 tsp. butter
• 2 Tbsp. flour

Directions: 

Duckquailin
Debone duck, quail, and squab completely, leaving skin attached. Reserve bones for gravy.

Lay out the duck and stuff with sausage made with all the giblet of the fowl and some pork shoulder; add golden raisins and chopped walnuts. Place a thin layer on the duck breast. Now lay the squab on top of duck, and repeat the process with the sausage and quail.

Using butcher's twine, tie up the birds evenly and wrap tightly in cheese cloth. Tie tight.

Cover with chicken stock and poach in oven at 300 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on your oven. After 45 minutes, check every 15 until internal temperature reaches 140 degrees.

Let cool in liquid overnight and then untie. Roast in a 350-degree oven for another hour, or until internal temp reaches 150 degrees.

Let rest for 20 minutes before slicing and serving with mushroom gravy.

Dijon-mushroom Gravy
Take all bones from above-mentioned fowl. Roast in 350-degree oven for 45 minutes or until golden brown.

Take the onion, celery, and carrots (mirepoix) and roast with bones another 15 minutes.

Take all vegetables and bones and put in a heavy-bottom pot. Add thyme, peppercorns, anise, and garlic.

Deglaze roasting pans with 4 cups water and put deglazed mixture from pan in with bones. Cover with water (approximately 3 to 4 quarts) and gently simmer for 3 to 4 hours, or until the liquid has reduced by half and the bones are broken up.

Strain liquid and reserve.

Sauté mushrooms in a teaspoon of butter until soft, add flour and stir for 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat; add brandy and gently tilt pan toward flame. ***Use caution.*** It will flambé. All flame to subside. Add stock.

Simmer for another 20 minutes; then stir in mustard and cream to finish. Taste for seasoning and serve.

Caramelized Fennel with Almond-glazed Brussels Sprouts and Parisian Sweet Potato

Servings: 

8

(Courtesy of chefs Mike Granata, Steven Devereaux Greene, and Spencer Thompson)

Ingredients: 

• 2 large onions, julienned
• 2 fresh fennel bulbs, julienned
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 3 Tablespoons butter
• Salt and pepper
• 2 lbs. Brussels sprouts
• 1/3 cup Amaretto
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds, toasted
• 3 lbs. Parisian sweet potato, balled with a melon-baller
• Fresh chives, chopped

Directions: 

Julienne 2 large onions and 2 fresh fennel bulbs. Chop 2 cloves fresh garlic.

Take 2 tablespoons butter and place in a heavy-bottom sauce pan. Add cut ingredients, season with salt and pepper, and sauté over medium heat for approximately 15 minutes. Set aside.

Clean and blanch 2 pounds Brussels sprouts. In a sauté pan add 1 tablespoon of butter and sprouts; season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes, then add 1/3 cup of Amaretto liquor and 1/2 cup of toasted sliced almonds. Reduce for 5 minutes.

Blanch sweet-potato balls in salted boiling water until tender. Drain and sauté in butter. Season with salt and pepper and chopped fresh chives.

Carolina Gold Rice Pudding with Caramelized Apples and Spiced White Chocolate Whipped Cream

Servings: 

6

Courtesy of Chef Jason Scholtz

Ingredients: 

Rice Pudding

• 3/4 cup Carolina Gold rice
• 1 ½ cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/8 tsp cinnamon




Custard

• 4 egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 ½ cups whole milk
• 1/8 tsp salt

Spiced White Chocolate Whipped Cream

• 1 cup white-chocolate chips
• 3 Tablespoons butter
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 3 Tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 Tablespoon cinnamon
• 1 Tablespoon ground ginger
• 1 Tablespoon ground cloves

Caramelized Apples

• 2 Gala or Fuji apples
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 Tablespoon lemon juice
• 2 Tablespoons butter at room temperature
• 1/2 cup apple cider
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• pinch salt

Directions: 

To make rice
In a medium saucepan, put rice, milk, water, sugar, and cinnamon, and set over medium-high heat; cover. Bring to a simmer, and then reduce the heat to low, and cook 15 to 20 minutes. Stir occasionally until the milk is absorbed. Remove from heat.

To make custard
Whisk yolks and sugar in bowl. Bring milk, vanilla, and salt to a simmer in saucepan. Temper yolks and milk (slowly pour a bit of the milk mixture into the bowl with yolks while whisking). Pour the tempered mixture back into the saucepan and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes, until sauce coats the back of a spoon. Stir rice into custard.

To make whipped cream
Melt white-chocolate chips and butter over a double boiler. Remove from heat. In a mixer, whip on high speed the heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla until whipped cream is formed. When white-chocolate mixture has cooled to room temperature, whisk it into the whipped cream and add the spices.

For the apples:
Peel, core, and cut apples into medium-sized chunks. Combine sugar and lemon juice in nonstick skillet. Bring to a boil, swirling pan until mixture is a deep amber color. Remove from heat and wait a few minutes; whisk in butter. Put back on stove and add cider, salt, and apples, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook until apples are tender. Add cream, increase heat, and cook until sauce thickens.

Assembly
In a serving dish of your choice, layer rice pudding with apple mixture and top with whipped cream.